LED lighting solutions
for the Australian and world wide market
LED light bulbs supplier
Importers / Exporters
FAQ (frequently asked questions) about LEDs
This page contains questions
about LEDs in general and in relation to our products
In 90% to most cases you will find an answer to your LED related question
in this section of our web site.. All the questions we've
encountered over two years of business are on this web page.
We have taken great efforts compiling these FAQs and will update
this page constantly
Please before you use the
email - exhaust this Frequently Asked Questions page...!
"Are they
the same type as the standard halogen dichroic bulb that
you buy from Woolies?"
Yes - the standard versions of the MR16 are a direct replacement
for the bulb that you buy from Woolies although there
are some issues that are addressed below.
"Can I use 240v AC/12v AC
transformers with these bulbs?"
LED bulbs are DC driven - this means that the LEDs themselves
run on DC power only - so if LED bulbs are used in a 240v
situation where there are long cable runs you would have
to use a 240v AC/12v AC transformer.
Some LED bulbs simply won't run on 12v AC (like the new
3w units), although we do stock bulbs that carry a 12v
AC/DC tag it's been our experience that they simply don't
like being run on AC.
The new lineup of 3w MR16 single high power diodes are
12v DC only for example.
The conventional LED bulbs that we stock have small bridge
rectifiers inside (this converts the 12v AC power to DC)
- even though they have these recifiers we've experienced
problems with conventional bulbs being overdriven when
using transformers.
We suggest installing small bridge rectifiers at the bulb
itself when using 12v AC power on long cable runs.
The main design use of the LED MR16 is for battery conscious
and power budget low voltage sites using 12v DC power
- although they can be used in domestic situations there
are costs involved with installing power supplies, bridge
rectifiers etc
There are some saving factors however - LED bulbs use
next to no power - in certain situations you may be able
to use 240v AC/12v DC power supplies if the cable runs aren't
too long and the current draw isn't that great.
Your electrician should be able to calculate voltage drop
in wiring based on current draw, cable size and length.
Keep in mind that the new 3w MR16 units are 8~15v DC -
this gives greater ability to withstand voltage drop anyway.
"How bright are your new
8~15v DC 3w 10 degree and 60 degree units?"
The 10 degree spotlight when measured directly in front
will rival a 40w halogen - we must qualify that by saying
it will rapidly fade after that narrow spot beam - it's
a spotlight - much like a torch.
The 60 degree units will altogether rival a 20w halogen
- we settled on a multi-optic glass lens to diffuse the
light out to a 60 degree angle.
"What is the difference
between the 5500k and 3000k color range?"
The 5500k colour is about as close to daylight as we can
get - daylight being about 5800k - anything after that
and you start getting that blue tinge.
Most of the early white LED lights had that blue tinge
because they actually were a blue LED with some doping
phosphors added - as they aged they got more blue because
it was the doping phosphors breaking down not the blue
chip itself.
The 3000k has a soft ambient amber/amber vibe to it and
is very much the same as your halogen amber light.
"Can you dim MR16 LED bulbs?"
The reported safest way of dimming LED bulbs is using
pulse modulators - these devices keep the voltage
stable whist switching the current on and off millions
of times per second.
You can adjust the pulse rate - this creates a dimming
effect and causes no lasting problems for the LED bulb.
They don't like voltage driven dimmers or touch lamps
either - seems that the touch lamps send a spike into
the LED lights and fry them fairly quick.
Why don't you sell LED deck lights?
With regard to recessed deck lights there are several
types available these days but we highly recommend that
if you are going to use a recess on deck light then you
would need the type that has a replaceable bulb.
We've seen many LED deck lights that are one unit, the
LEDs are actually sealed inside the fitting.
We don't like this type of idea because our experience
has been that LEDs fail sometimes and often when LED bulbs
fail only a couple of LEDs will actually stop working
but this doesn't look very good and renders the bulb defective.
We've seen this many times and we see an even more so
where there aren't enough quality controls over the production
of the LEDs.
The company putting together the fitting will obtain their
LEDs from any particular area.
We sell LED bulbs that have passed all the regulation
standards and we highly recommend that if you are going
to get any LED lights in the future make sure that the
fitting can take a replaceable bulb.
The most common type of replaceable fittings are MR 16,
these are the common recess downlights that you see in
houses and garden fittings.
These color changing LED MR16 bulbs go through a cycle
which actually combines the primary colours by fading
in and out - so if you look at the bulb from behind a
white shade you'll see purples, light blues in all the
different combinations.
The whole cycle takes about 30 seconds to go through and
at one stage it goes white for a second or two when all
primary colorus come on.
We are introducing new 3w MR16 versions
with the new 20 degree 5500k (daylight white) units followed
by the much anticipated wide angle 3w GU10 (240v AC) and
3w MR16.
These new wide angle units are the culmination
of almost 2 years of experience with LED.
Firstly they'll have an 8~15v DC operating
range - this is very critical due to the fact that ordinary
(In gen) type LED bulbs are sensitive to variations in
voltage, when a battery is run down to say 11.3v there
is resistance incurred by the bulb trying to pull the
right amount of voltage into itself while the "tank"
is running down further.
Heat is generated by this process and usually shortens
the life of the bulb considerably.
We worked on the lens and settled on a refracting
glass lens, LEDs are forward directional in light output,
ordinary reflectors tended to show an irregular light
spread and glass lenses gave 100% results.
Our exhaustive testing of the wide angle
60 degree units has shown that to achieve a realistic
consistent level of light at 60 degrees we must have a
glass diffused lens on them.
This has shown perfect results and we therefore will standardize
on the glass reflector lens on all subsequent wide angle
units.
We've been producing the 3 W diodes
now for two years, currently we use the Luxeonics diodes
in all our bulbs with considerable success.
We've found the Luxeonics units to be extremely reliable
in conjunction with the constant current drivers now used.
We will however be using the Cree 3 W diodes in the MR
16 3 W 50° cool white units next production run and
will be available late July.
Cree claim their new 3 W diode called the XR-E to be brighter
and more reliable than any Luxeonics units which we find
to be quite some claim.
In any case, in our endeavor to have the best available
we will have both Luxeonics and Cree 3 W units available
until we make a decision which way to go.
"I've installed
12V downlights in my outdoor patio area and I've found
that due to heat from the downlights I'm heating the timber
frame. I've heard that next to no heat will radiate from
the LED replacement globes, is this correct?"
The new diodes we run these days produce
some warmth, nothing like the halogen type units. You
can hold the 3w diodes in your hand easily.
"Can I expect to
get the same brightness and quality of light from these
replacements as in the past I have noticed that the LED
light tended to have a bluish tinge to it and be quite
dull."
With the new 3w single diodes - we have
a choice of warm or cool white - the warm white have a
halogen colour to them. You can expect these diodes to
be significantly brighter than anything previously seen
in LED - they will rival the output and far exceed the
lifetime of a 20w halogen
What's about that label
'1-3 Watt' for the MR11 light?
Sometimes with electronics it's damned if
you do and damned if you don't !
When we first introduced the MR11 unit we stated the unit
as being a 1w diode and quoted the lumens figures accordingly.
But when customers put them on a meter the bulb was consuming
nearly 3 W (actually about 2.7 W) because of the electronics
involved so we actually called the unit an MR16 or MR11
3w unit because that is what it actually consumes.
We then left it up to the customer if they were satisfied
with the light output at 3w consumption.
So sorry that looks like it's deceptive it's really not,
it's in the customer's favour more so than ours.
The lumens figures we quote for 3 Watt total consumption
of the bulb more so than many rated wattage consumption
of the diode without the electronics.
The speaker placed on the back of the bulb and the labelling
on the box represents the wattage consumption of the diode
and is in a sense the model number of the diode, not the
actual consumption of the bulb.
What I think we will do is amend the descriptions on the
MR11 Cree and Nichia 3w diodes to have mention of the
1w model.
Lightbar update:.
Our new 650mm lightbar uses elliptical LEDs.
These are wide angle LEDs and will distribute the light
on a wider arc and is therefore more suited as a desk/work
light.
the overall length is actually 700 mm -
there's the end caps to count in.
Following on from the successful trial of the 1200mm light
bar we've produced a 650mm version.
We originally produced the light bar in a 1200mm length
but found that they were getting far too damaged in the
mail system at that length.
We couldn't find tubes to fit and it became uneconomical
to send them.
The longest and sturdiest mailing tubes
we could find were 720 mm - so we standardised on that
length.
"Can I use
this lightbar outdoors?"
You'll need to do two things:
Put a shroud over it to protect it from sunlight.
The plastic is a hardened acrylic and was designed originally
for our car kits.
They're fairly impact resistant and will take a fair knock
but they will need to be permanently shaded from the sun.
For wet or very humid conditions, sealing of the lightbar
is essential.
Our trials have shown that moisture will appear inside
the bar if not sealed in dry conditions.
Pick a dry day and put some silicone just around the end
joins.
The wire assembly is waterproof but those tube ends need
sealing for use in watery conditions.
"DO they come
in any other size apart from 700mm, and can i connect
them to a battery pack, if so how many batteries would
i need and what type."
We're also working on a 300mm version using our 3 Chip
Flux LEDs due February 07.
Our 1200mm version now using elliptical LEDs will be
due for release in February 07.
These units operate at roughly 3w per bar - that's .25A
at 12v or 250mA
For one lightbar running 6 hours a night with a daily
recharge and 30% discharge?
6 (hrs) x .25 (Amps) = 1.5Ah at 12v DC
1.5 (Amp/hours) divided by .30 (the amount of battery
you wish to discharge) = 5Ah battery.
The 8~15v DC operating range is great for
those folk who regularly run their solar battery down
to near flat.
This light will operate without dimming whilst the rest
of your lights go down to candle brightness.
It gives you the time to go start your generator.....
"How does
the 300mm 4 x 1w version compare with the 650mm light
bar in light output?" We've been producing the 36 LED 650mm light bar
for nearly two years in its various forms and the last
update to wide angle elliptical LED was in late 2006.
The 650mm lightbar spreads its light directly on the table
and leaves a pleasant ambient light to the rest of the
area.
The Cool White 300mm light bars are very similar in output
and colour to a 600mm fluorescent tube.
We'd place the Cool White 300mm light bar about 30% brighter
in total than the 36 LED 650mm light bar.
For remote homes RV's etc we'd recommend them for kitchen
and bathroom areas.
The light completely spreads out so that there aren't
any defined areas brighter than others.
As a camp light you'd want this to be a central light
whereas the 650mm version should be placed over a table
or desk.
The Warm White 300mm lightbar gives a very pleasant warm
light and is best suited to the bedrooms and lounge areas
and has a definate amber halogen tone.
It would be on a par woith the 36 LED 650mm light bar
in total light output, keeping in mind the two white colours
and viewing angles (the direction the light gets thrown)
arent quite the same.
Any other questions please
email us...
The mounting screws are situated around
the outside of the dome light so it can be easily screwed
to a flat surface from above.
The cover of the unit is screwed to the base so that the
screw goes through both cover and base to give a more
secure connection.
The new switching adaptor (lso called transformer,
or power supply) works in a input voltage range from 100
to 240 volt - thus is suited for the US market too
"How many LED light
can i run from one transformer?"
The transformer is capable of delivering
60 watts - but it is recommended to use 45 watts for continious
usage
"What is the maximum
cable run distance from switching adaptor to lightbar
with the normal cable?"
At approx 10 meters -
some of our gear runs on 8-15 volts (LED lightbar, BA15
3 chip FLUX, 3 watt MR16) so they will even go further
- approx 15 mtr.
We had customer feedback of 50 metres and
still bright light with our 8-15 Volt range products.
LED mood candles (single white candle with
AA batteries!)
The ON/OFF switch is on the bottom of the
candle - so is the battery compartmet latch.
These LED candles look like real candles
and when lit up only the 'wick' flickers - the body of
the candle stays unlit.( like a real candle..)
The candles go inside the silicon holders and the wick
lights up and shines through.
Do not pull off the white cap - that is
the 'wick'!!
"Does the candle come out
of the glass for battery replacement?"
Yes - but it won't be neccessary - the battery compartment
is at the base of the candle and the ON / OFF switch too
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